Chianti and Italian food: is there a better combination in the world? Ok, maybe champagne and oysters…or perhaps foie gras and Sauternes, but I digress. Sangiovese has a covert power; it can stand up to the biggest of dishes and also display complex and even pretty flavor combinations. It can almost seem elegant, sitting quietly in a corner – until provoked to attack with bold strokes and a long finish.
This 2006 Buoni Anni Sangiovese from Cent’Anni vineyards in Happy Canyon near Santa Ynez Valley doesn’t disappoint. It has notes of dried rhubarb and toasted tree branch, a lighter body which is slightly rounded in the mouth, and a finish long enough to satisfy La Cosa Nostra. It packs a punch.
I’m all for wines sanctioned by the A-FWE, and I’ll admit this wine’s got pretty big amounts of fruit and wood, high alcohol and earthy tones, but it’s also balanced. And it’s heavy. Heavy enough to muscle in among bites of bistecca fiorentina, braised meat dishes or even pizza. Elegant until provoked. Then, it’s strong enough to obliterate from your memory anything you no longer wish to keep there. A good friend to have.